Belize – The Dark Side Of Paradise

Abandoned attempt to privatize motor vehicle inspections in Belize.

I had the good fortune to spend a few hours with Clinton Uh Luna at the library the other day. I find his articles in the Amandala  thought provoking and interesting and requested a meeting. When I saw him he was wearing a blue and red color combination and naturally I made a humorous political comment, he responded by saying he was a member of the PUDP, a fictitious amalgam of the two parties in Belize. Well partly, but more the political statement of a 67 year old self appointed activist “radical”.

To say he was not happy with the political state of affairs of his country would be an understatement. He related a shameful story of gross impropriety on the part of a UDP minister and rampant corruption at all levels and departments, not to mention misappropriation of funds. And just when I thought that this was only a PUP pastime. You see I heard through the grapevine that the previous leadership specialized in monetary mismanagement. Rumor has it the Swiss donated $10,000 to build a bridge over the New River on the way to Progressso/Copper Bank. That never happened as the funds were allocated elsewhere. Over the years I have been here I looked forward to the days when the totalitarian PUP run by Said Musa would be removed from power and responsible government would take its place. Not so simple.

Now it is a fact that a new leader often has to clean up the mess left by his predecessor. A case in point is Obama and his declining popularity due in part to the slime left behind by George Bush. But this is being too apologetic in the case of Belize.

I have never been into politics as I have always thought as per J.S. Mill that the best form of government is the least form or maybe none at all, other than a judiciary. Politicians, in my opinion, are one step biologically above the ameba on the evolutionary scale. What I learned from Clinton was that there are a lot of amebas in Belmopan. Some are red. This more so since Belize is not a democracy but an oligarchy: a government where the rulers are a small group held together by royal lines, the military or in Belize’s case by incestuous family ties conducive to nepotism.

I am not the first person to write about corruption in 3rd world nations or Belize in particular: “Justice that occurs in Belize is warped and biased by a political angle. Fair justice is unlikely to be done and most of the scapegoats are the poor. This is a two edged sword and often investors, or well connected people can get out of non-threatening criminal charges by paying fines for lesser offenses.” (Channel 7 news 2001)

“Welcome to Belize, a country of sandy beaches, dense jungle, and rich cultural heritage. This is a tropical paradise with rampant HIV infection, impoverished people, and political corruption causing debt” (from a project by the University of Vermont)

“Corruption is a critical issue in Belize, we know the answers but lack the means to solve them. The nation of Belize has been hijacked by two political parties and a system of representative government that treats the country like a plantation under the thumb of a headquarter’s, by the white collar gangs in the old Colonial Capital, the port of Belize City.” (Belize News 2002)

Now this brings me to a discussion we had about the end result on the people: complacency or anger. I was recently told that the problem of garbage and vandalism in Corozal was a vestige of colonial rebellion i.e. a bad habit. Not so according to my friend: it is a form of rebellion and displacement of hostility against the state. Nothing changes: 40% of the populace is poor, underpaid, underfed and well it is normal to feel a little pissed off.Citizens resort to begging or bribery to survive. Like the guy at customs who offered a friend a deal on electronics importation. He got a piece and the government gets a lesser piece. After all he said “they will just waste it”.

As for being complacent, if you are powerless you end up in a state of learned helplessness. Take the local attitude towards the potholes on Belize roads. Why bother complaining, drive around them, instead of asking they be filled. Won’t happen anyway. And that’s how they feel about the entire system. What I also learned not just from Mr Luna was that things may have been better when this was the British Honduras. Apparently the Brits would send 5,000,000 pounds per year here and the funds were allocated by the governor general to where it was needed not according to the whims of the current politicos.

In contrast a recent loan made to the G.O.B. in the amount of $30,000,0000 was met with cynicism: “This Municipal Development Project will be implemented by a unit within the Social Investment Fund and is aimed at providing management level jobs, SUVs and business wardrobe for the politically connected and family members in order for them to look important as well as channel money to their off-shore accounts.” (Belize Forum)

Well what’s the solution? Shall the people rebel like this in 1775?: Worked for the Americans.

After all government overthrow is a popular Central American pastime. Nearly every country except Costa Rica has dumped the government. 79 times in El Salvador:

No, I cannot picture the BDF storming the palace in Belmopan. It is not the Belizean way. Yet history is replete with examples of violent overthrow by the oppressed:

Mr Luna feels that education of the young is the way to start. However he has been banned from speaking openly to students, apparently by the Ministry of Education. He says the kids get an absurdly distorted view of Belizean history and an inferior education, in any case. So much for democracy. Control the young and they won’t cause trouble when they grow up. He does work with students on an individual basis when they are assigned projects of a political nature. The youth have more power than they realize, if properly educated and motivated. After all the Vietnam War was “won” by the rebellious pot smoking teens and young adults of the late 60′s.

I would like to think he has the idea of turning the PUDP into reality and like Canada a 3 party system. Liberal, Conservative and NDP (socialist). Canada was formed peacefully in 1867 and has never had a violent government overthrow:

There are no immediate answers, but I do know that Belize’s future survival is dependent on the goodwill of others, including tourists and ex pat retirees. But those with ethical sense, empathy, and even guilt will go elsewhere if change is not a future reality.

Editor’s Note: The above is a concise essay by an expatriate that once called Belize his home. The gentleman and his family have now returned to North America. His comments after living here for several years are valid and useful for anyone wanting an inside look at how some things really work in Belize. After digesting the above, readers will understand the writer’s desire to remain anonymous.